Hairstyles for an oblong face

The rule

An oblong face is clearly longer than it is wide, with straight sides. Hair balances it by adding width at the cheeks and jaw, and by covering part of the forehead so the visible face is shorter. The rule is width at the sides, a fringe on top, no height at the crown.

Fringes and bangs come first

A fringe is the most effective single change for an oblong face because it removes forehead length directly. Options, from strongest effect to softest:

• Full, straight-across fringe at brow level. The strongest shortening effect. Keep it soft-edged rather than a hard blunt line if the jaw is also squared, so the face is not boxed in.
• Curtain fringe that parts in the middle and sweeps to each side, covering the outer forehead and framing the cheekbones. Adds width and takes away height at once.
• Side-swept fringe, the softest option, which covers one side of the forehead and creates a diagonal.

Medium length with width

A layered bob or a shoulder-length cut with waves is the ideal length for an oblong face. Layers that start at the cheekbones and add volume through the jaw put width at the sides. Waves and curls do the same naturally. A chin-length wavy bob with a fringe is the classic oblong-face cut.

Long hair

Long hair can work on an oblong face if it has width: waves, curls, or layers starting at the cheekbones. Long, straight, one-length hair hanging flat at the sides is the least flattering style for this shape, because it adds two vertical lines that make the face read even longer. If you keep long hair straight, add a fringe and face-framing layers.

Short hair

Short cuts need care. A pixie with width at the sides, a soft fringe and a flat top suits an oblong face; a pixie with height on top and tight sides lengthens it. A cropped bob with a fringe is a safer short option.

Partings

A side part breaks the vertical line and is preferable to a centre part, which draws a straight line down the middle of an already long face. A deep side part with a sweeping fringe adds the most width.

Men's hairstyles for an oblong face

For men the aim is to keep the top flat and let the sides carry some weight. A fringe brought forward, a French crop with the fringe worn down, a side part with moderate length and no lift, or a medium cut with texture and the sides left fuller all suit an oblong face. Avoid a high pompadour, a tall quiff, a spiky top, and a high skin fade, all of which add height or strip width from the sides.

Hair texture

Waves and curls add width naturally and are the oblong face's advantage. Keep the volume at the sides and let the top lie flatter. Fine straight hair needs layers, a fringe and a side part to add the width it lacks.

What to avoid on an oblong face

• Height at the crown, from teased roots to a pompadour.
• Long, straight, one-length hair with no fringe.
• A centre part with hair falling flat at the sides.
• Very tight, short sides.
• Sleek, slicked-back styles that expose the full length of the face.

Check your proportions

The face shape test reports your length-to-width ratio. Above 1.7, a full fringe and width at the sides will make the biggest difference; between 1.55 and 1.65, a curtain fringe and layers may be enough.